Sunday, 31 August 2014

Painting Mr. Burns

As requested, a painting tutorial on how to paint Hive Fleet Nidrot.


Today, I'm going to paint Mr. Burns.  A picture tells a 1000 words and all that so...


1) Model is primed black. 2) A thin coat of Khorne Red is applied to the skin parts. 3) Skin is overbrushed with Elysian Green but you can still see red in the recesses. 4) Nurgling Green is drybrushed over the previous coat.


5) 1:1 mix of Ushabti Bone/Nurgling Green is drybrush highlighted on the skin. 6) An equal mix of Biel-Tan Green, Water and Glazing Medium is washed onto the skin. 7) The tentacles and sacs are drybrushed with Cadian Fleshtone and then Ushabti Bone.  (note that this is how I do the wings on my flying creatures except I only highlight with Ushabti Bone so that far more flesh tone is showing) 8) Equal mix of Reikland Fleshshade/Water/Glazing Medium is washed onto the tentacles and sacs.


9) Carapace parts are tidied up with Abaddon Black, then lines of thinned Khorne Red are applied to all edges with a detail brush.  10) Evil Sunz Scarlet is painted, slightly thinner on top of the Khorne Red staying carefully in the lines. 11) An even thinner stripe of Tau Light Ochre is applied over the red (I much preferred it when this colour was called Vomit Brown).  12) A 2:1:1 mix of Glazing Medium/Carroburg Crimson/Water is washed over the carapace, trying to get a sheen, like chitin.


13) Rhinox Hide is painted in stripes over the talons/spikes/pincers.  14)  XV-88 is striped over the Rhinox hide (similar to the way the carapace is done).  Eyeballs painted Khorne Red.  15) Tau Light Ochre is striped over the XV-88.  Eyeballs highlighted with Troll Slayer Orange.  17) A 2:1:1 mix of Glazing Medium/Reikland Fleshshade/Water is washed over the talons/spikes/pincers.  High Gloss varnish applied to tentacles and sacs  (I don't normally do this but I wanted it to look really slimy).

I have no idea what happened to step 16).   It may have been consumed by Rippers. Or perhaps the Chaos Gods reserved it because I was using two many eights.   


The rubble was drybrushed Thunderhawk Blue, The plating Tin Bitz. Brass Scorpion was used to highlight the Tin Bitz.  Then everything drybrushed Codex Grey except the edge of the plating; then Celestra Grey.   The 'water' was painted Caliban Green and heavily varnished.  Finally, Nurgle's Rot was smeared over it.



13 comments:

  1. Fantastic, just as good as the Forgeworld model. The Tentacle maker is awesome, I should look to invest at some point. I'm also impressed with how Nurgles Rot interacts with the green water like an algae floating on the top. Need to get my hobby head on as I'm just doing straight painting and modelling at the moment which although fulfilling isn't the whistles and bells satisfaction of these sorts of projects.

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    1. Thanks Dave. Nurgle's Rot is great stuff. You can even use it as gap filler in an emergency.

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  2. Awesome!
    Thanks for doing this!

    This is my first time painting, and I didn't want to waste lots of time and money with different color schemes to find something that works.

    However, I have had a pretty hard time imitating the same look. I've only done Termagants so far.
    Do you put the same number of details into he Termagants/Hormagaunts as you put into the MC's?

    Maybe I'm over doing it.

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    1. I often don't stick rigidly with a painting recipe to be honest but I generally apply all the steps listed (I forgot to say that I just drybrush Ushabti bone on stuff like Termagant guns and wash with Reikland). If you're not used to painting then its going to take time and practice I'm afraid. For me, thats one of the most enjoyable parts of the hobby. It took me 18 months just to settle on this colour scheme and there were many, many failed attempts which I will never show you pictures of! Have you checked out any tutorials/books for techniques? The GW staff in any shop are trained to help and they have given me tips and pointers many times. Its common to overdo the drybrushing bits and lose contrast but without seeing your models I can't tell. As a general rule, if you put too little paint on then you can always put more on later. If you put too much on however... Mail me at monkeychuka@gmail.com if you want to chat.

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  3. HOLY SHIT, MONKEYCHUKA! THAT THING LOOKS AMAZING! If you send me the HTML for this post I'd love to repost it on the GSI blog!

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  4. BTW, you have some admirer's...
    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=957295144296461&set=gm.381811641966895&type=1&theater
    Hope that link works. Otherwise check out the FB group 40k for Adults.

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  5. Really lovely job. One of my fav mal's I've ever seen!

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    1. Thankyou! I only lurk on your blog and its your fault that I play Divinity: Original Sin!

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    2. Man was that game ever a surprise. It took me hook line and sinker. Best game I played this year by far. I think I sunk 60 hours into it... It got a bit easy near the end, but they seem to have adjusted that in patches now!



      I really appreciate that you took the time to show your steps. It's no only nice to see such a lovely model, but to see how your work process went! I'm totally going to loot your awesome nurglesh water recipe!

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  6. Would it be possible to commission you for one of these heads?

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    1. I have a spare Tyrant head to use as a base so I suppose I could do another. I'd rather do swapsies than sell it tho. Got anything interesting to trade?

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